Schaut euch meinen Strada-Umbau an. Das funktioniert völlig problemlos. Meistens fahre ich bei der Kassette im 6. oder 7. Gang und bei der Rohloff die Gänge 5-14, aber beim kurzen, knackigen (irgend was gegen 20%), gepflasterten Anstieg, den ich mir jeden Morgen gönne, liebe ich meine kleinen Gänge. Früher habe ich mich jeweils ausgekotzt. Da macht frühmorgens meine Asthmstikerlunge gleich mal zu.
Bei Tempi bis 80 km/h habe ich auch schon mitgetreten, das verlängert die „Gleitphasen“ dann doch noch mehr als ich erwartet hätte. Aber gut, darauf könnte man verzichten.
Das Beste aber ist, dass ich auch im Stand schalten kann und dass ich seit dem Umbau viel weniger Shrauberei und Kettenprobleme habe.

Diese Diskussion habe ich zwar selbst angerissen, aber in diesem Thread droht sie langsam aber sicher ins OT zu rutschen. Falls jemand Lust hat, könnte man dafür einen eigenen Thread eröffnen.
 
Can you put a scale aganist a wall and tell us how much one leg can press?
I don't have a scale that goes >140 kg but I tried something similar before. As long as I have something behind me so I won't slide, I'm quite certain I can push it to the end of the scale on one leg. Not sure how much past the end I'm pushing it by then.
 
Sollte kein Akt sein. Ich Spargeltarzan bekomm pro Bein auch knapp 100kg hoch. Aus der tiefen Hocke! Wenn das Bein fast durchgestreckt ist, kann man eigentlich druck drauf geben, bis die Gelenke den Dienst quitieren.
 
Diese Diskussion habe ich zwar selbst angerissen, aber in diesem Thread droht sie langsam aber sicher ins OT zu rutschen. Falls jemand Lust hat, könnte man dafür einen eigenen Thread eröffnen.
Eigener Thread wäre denke ich sinnvoll. Hab auch schon nachgedacht ne Rohloff als Hauptschaltung unterm Sitz einzubauen. Und wenn das zu grob ist hinten noch ne Kettenschaltung als Feineinstellung mit zb 1Ritzelabständen.
 
Ich fahre 60/39 auf 11-36 und schon da kann man die halbe Kassette auf dem 39er nicht fahren.
Ja, das ist eh klar. Das heißt aber auch, Du kannst die halbe Kassette fahren, wow! Das finde ich nicht schlecht. Mit größeren Ritzeln hinten ist die Differenz bei den Zähnen ja auch wieder geringer. Bei 34-40 hat die Kette dieselbe Spannung wie bei z.B. 63-11. Das sollte dazu führen, dass man hinten eher wieder mehr Gänge schalten kann. Das Schalten von klein auf groß ist bei solchen Kombinationen natürlich immer ein Gewürge, lässt sich aber mit gleichzeitigem Schalten hinten unterstützen.
Ich würde lieber ein Bülk mit Kompromissen beim Schaltkomfort fahren als ein langsameres, schwereres, weicheres Velomobil. Notfalls gehe ich lieber vorne auf kleinere Kettenblätter.
 
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Perhaps it would not be a bad idea having different versions available for a configuration similar to cars. For example, one version that focuses on comfort and another on sportiness. I often have to ask forum members or dealers which option is best for which occasion. By choosing a sporty version when making my selection, I don't have to waste time looking for things. On the other hand, I do understand that some people ride on flat roads and others in hilly areas. Although, as far as your drivetrain is concerned, you could still be asked where exactly you are going to ride and what your goal is. Based on that question and answer, the configurator can suggest different options.

The first 5 questions of a configurator may already be something like: which shape appeals to you the most? What is your budget? Do you focus more on comfort or speed? How much luggage do you want to store? A question about how important speed is to you, with options like important, very important and "I want to time travel" with the Snoek and the Bülk as the answer is perhaps a bit far-fetched. :unsure::LOL:

It would point some people in the right direction straight away, without having to read the text of all the velomobiles. I don't mind and I like reading what there is to say about any velomobile, although there are just as many people who want an immediate answer to their question.
 
(with apologies for English)

For @tw463 and others, rather than requiring an intermediate gearbox for a wider range of gears, it would be good if the Bülk were able to accommodate a Schlumpf Mountain Drive (cargo version) which can be configured with a double chainring. This would give an extremely wide range of gears - with the indirect mode only being needed for very steep ascents. According to their manual they do not recommend the use of a double chainring on the standard mountain drive - the cargo version has more bolts to attach the spider to the drive, and also has a stainless spider (chainring adapter).

In other news, I am very pleased to see a velomobile that is compact but designed to fit taller people. I also very much appreciated Jens' courtesy in mentioning the A9/M9 as a possibility for larger people - this kind of respect and honesty is great to see.

Now if only I could justify another velomobile...!
 
Perhaps it would not be a bad idea having different versions available for a configuration similar to cars. For example, one version that focuses on comfort and another on sportiness. I often have to ask forum members or dealers which option is best for which occasion. By choosing a sporty version when making my selection, I don't have to waste time looking for things. On the other hand, I do understand that some people ride on flat roads and others in hilly areas. Although, as far as your drivetrain is concerned, you could still be asked where exactly you are going to ride and what your goal is. Based on that question and answer, the configurator can suggest different options.

The first 5 questions of a configurator may already be something like: which shape appeals to you the most? What is your budget? Do you focus more on comfort or speed? How much luggage do you want to store? A question about how important speed is to you, with options like important, very important and "I want to time travel" with the Snoek and the Bülk as the answer is perhaps a bit far-fetched. :unsure::LOL:

It would point some people in the right direction straight away, without having to read the text of all the velomobiles. I don't mind and I like reading what there is to say about any velomobile, although there are just as many people who want an immediate answer to their question.
I think you really have to do a test ride. Deciding from specifications alone will lead you nowhere, as more or less any velomobile is able to accomodate different gearing choices or electric motors.
The most important question is whether you feel comfortable in a certain velomobile at the speeds you're going to ride. I bought a Milan SL, which will need quite a bit of finagling to get a proper fit (I'm small); the Snoek would have been the obviously better choice from specifications alone, but due to instability at speed, I wouldn't feel comfortable riding it.
That said, that's why you ask a dealer. They should be knowledgeable enough to provide some recommendations. It's a shame that they usually don't carry the whole range of velomobileworld velomobiles, which makes everything so much more complicated.

Speed is important in all models. Better efficiency means less effort spent on losses, which translates to lower effort for the rider at any given speed. That's exactly why we see improvements in different categories: Aerodynamic efficiency for riding at speed, drivetrain efficiency (e.g. by making the drivetrain more rigid) for riding at high power (sprinting, riding uphill, etc.). Thus, (budget concerns nonwithstanding) you always want the most aerodynamic and most rigid velomobile available, at least to the point where you have to make compromises due to fit, ergonomics or luggage capacity.
The Bülk seems to promise rigidity and aerodynamics at least on par with other modern velomobiles, which is great news.

The most important questions for velomobiles aren't which shape appears to you or what your budget is, but rather your power output, your weight, the length of your rides and the region you want to ride in. Currently, the focus seems to be on velomobiles for strong riders with high power outputs who need the efficiency at high power. That's a shame, because you need to jump through some hoops to modify them for low-power riding. Intermediate gearboxes will cost efficiency, so the speed at high power will be quite a bit lower, but should allow you to ride at lower speeds and thus lower power. However, they seem to have fallen out of favour in favour of electric motors, but you can still get intermediate gearboxes (e.g. the Mountain Drive) that fit in modern velomobiles. With the Bülk, as was said somewhere earlier in this thread, a mountain drive should fit as long as you're a small rider or at least don't have big feet.
 
The first 5 questions of a configurator may already be something like ...
I would argue that it would be the job of your local VM dealer to find out together with you what the intended usage of your VM will be.

Based on that he should be able to suggest not only suitable VMs but also reasonable choices in the configurator for gear shift etc.

Cheers, Jan
 
I think you really have to do a test ride. Deciding from specifications alone will lead you nowhere, as more or less any velomobile is able to accomodate different gearing choices or electric motors.
The most important question is whether you feel comfortable in a certain velomobile at the speeds you're going to ride. I bought a Milan SL, which will need quite a bit of finagling to get a proper fit (I'm small); the Snoek would have been the obviously better choice from specifications alone, but due to instability at speed, I wouldn't feel comfortable riding it.
That said, that's why you ask a dealer. They should be knowledgeable enough to provide some recommendations. It's a shame that they usually don't carry the whole range of velomobileworld velomobiles, which makes everything so much more complicated.

Speed is important in all models. Better efficiency means less effort spent on losses, which translates to lower effort for the rider at any given speed. That's exactly why we see improvements in different categories: Aerodynamic efficiency for riding at speed, drivetrain efficiency (e.g. by making the drivetrain more rigid) for riding at high power (sprinting, riding uphill, etc.). Thus, (budget concerns nonwithstanding) you always want the most aerodynamic and most rigid velomobile available, at least to the point where you have to make compromises due to fit, ergonomics or luggage capacity.
The Bülk seems to promise rigidity and aerodynamics at least on par with other modern velomobiles, which is great news.

The most important questions for velomobiles aren't which shape appears to you or what your budget is, but rather your power output, your weight, the length of your rides and the region you want to ride in. Currently, the focus seems to be on velomobiles for strong riders with high power outputs who need the efficiency at high power. That's a shame, because you need to jump through some hoops to modify them for low-power riding. Intermediate gearboxes will cost efficiency, so the speed at high power will be quite a bit lower, but should allow you to ride at lower speeds and thus lower power. However, they seem to have fallen out of favour in favour of electric motors, but you can still get intermediate gearboxes (e.g. the Mountain Drive) that fit in modern velomobiles. With the Bülk, as was said somewhere earlier in this thread, a mountain drive should fit as long as you're a small rider or at least don't have big feet.
I agree with you a test ride is important, although many people tend to prefer the external appearance of a bicycle/velomobiles/first impression. I just can't imagine ignoring the external aspect of a velomobile (the shape) whenever you check out models online or at a dealer. I have already read comments from people here that a recently released velomobile is not for them purely on the basis of a photo. These are forum members who have experience with velomobiles, so it seems unlikely that a test ride will make them change their minds. But yes, it is indeed important that a dealer has sufficient models on hand, and fortunately that is the case, although as you state, it would be great if they had the whole range available.

I do find it strange that you say you are not going to ride a Snoek, just because of others (?) opinion. So you assume without driving it yourself that the velomobile is not for you. You contradict your own statement here, don't you? I think velombiel.nl also claimed that velomobiles are generally not made to race down a mountain at insanely high speeds. On flat terrain the average velomobile rider does not ride constantly 60 km per hour either. Meanwhile, this bike won the World Cup on its first appearance. If you are twenty-five kilometres ahead and still have time to change velomobiles, it won't be so bad, will it?

I also find it very strange that the budget would not be a decisive factor. There is easily a 3-4K difference between certain models. I also completely disagree that the focus today is on strong riders or high power. You decide how fast you ride your velomobile, right? I myself had difficulties in my own Milan SL to maintain a speed of 40 km/h in the beginning (still waaaaay faster than if I were riding an upright racing bike). After half a year of training with @MartinL 40 km/h became basic training.
 
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Thank you @tomate for the reference to the mountain drive, problem solved! A 60T chainring means 24T low gear which with an 11-39 rotor cassette gives all the ratios needed. Yes I did take into account the loss of efficiency in the 24T low gear ;)

- mountain drive
- 90 mm brakes with cooling fins
- metallic white paint

The list of needed options is short, tank steering with real brake levers would be high on the wish list... @Peter_Joossen I think the brake lever supplied by VM.nl might have something to do with "insanely high speed" worries :unsure:
 
Ich fände es gut, wenn jetzt alle Beiträge die sich um

- Bordelektronik und Akkus im Allgemeinen und
- Übersetzungsverhältnisse im Allgemeinen

in VM-Diskussionsfäden zu diesen Thematiken verschoben würden.

Mir ist es viel wichtiger, ob meine Beine überhaupt in den Bülk passen,
denn, an denen kann ich kaum was auswählen oder umschrauben.
 
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