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This may help some people who like me are handicapped by the 78 RPM limit of the Bafang BBS01B motor. My natural cadence is around 90 RPM and I select a gear which allows me to spin at that speed when climbing. If you do spin at 90 RPM the motor becomes a generator (back EMF effect) and stops providing assistance...
This modification is from the endless sphere "all things electrical" forum.
If you try to plug a 48v battery into the motor you will get a 07 - over voltage error on your LCD display. The display only detects the voltage coming from the controller, not the voltage going to the controller from the battery so all we need to do is tell the LCD that the voltage is less than 44.6v, which seems to be the limit set by Bafang for a 36v battery.
Why not use a 48v battery and gain 33% more RPM? Well that is a little too fast for me - >103 RPM at 48v. I had made a 44v battery for my previous motor which had the exact same problem and that is a 22% increase so 95 RPM at 44v. The common KT controller does not have very sophisticated over voltage protection so the 36v controller will just go "pop" with a little bit of blue smoke if you plug in a fully charged 48v battery, so this kind of modification was not needed.
I had some problems identifying the colour of the wires inside the LCD cable until I took it outside in the daylight... but I found this plug schema on the internet
We are interested by the brown wire and not the orange one (which looked red inside with artificial light). PS my yellow wire is in fact white.
Then you need a TVS diode (Transient Voltage Suppressor) which comes with a large choice of breakdown voltages. For my battery 6v is the ideal number - maximum charge 49.8v - 6v = 43.8v. The diode is soldered inline on the brown wire with the band away from the LCD like so:
The reading on the LCD when I tested just now was 40.5v and on the watt meter connected to the battery 46.9v.
So what can go wrong?
- your LVC (low voltage cutoff) on the LCD will be affected. If it is set to 30v that is not much of a problem with the 12S 44v battery I have. You could wire in a bypass with a switch to turn off the diode when your real battery voltage reaches 42v.
- the reading on your display will not show the correct voltage. Mentally you can add 6v or just ignore the voltage display because on my LCD it isn't correct even before the modification... I prefer reading my battery voltage from the watt meter which I always have plugged inline.
- the TVS diode gets rid of the excess 6v as heat but the current is tiny so it should never be above 90ºC. As you can see I will cover the diode with heat shrink tube and inside the vélomobile it is protected from the weather.
And the motor? From previous experience the motor will have more punch, my previous motor even ran more quietly at 44v than when at 36v. If you spin at a slower cadence - 60 to 70 RPM - there is no real advantage.
So all I need to do know is road test and enjoy the comfort of using my natural cadence once again.
This modification is from the endless sphere "all things electrical" forum.
If you try to plug a 48v battery into the motor you will get a 07 - over voltage error on your LCD display. The display only detects the voltage coming from the controller, not the voltage going to the controller from the battery so all we need to do is tell the LCD that the voltage is less than 44.6v, which seems to be the limit set by Bafang for a 36v battery.
Why not use a 48v battery and gain 33% more RPM? Well that is a little too fast for me - >103 RPM at 48v. I had made a 44v battery for my previous motor which had the exact same problem and that is a 22% increase so 95 RPM at 44v. The common KT controller does not have very sophisticated over voltage protection so the 36v controller will just go "pop" with a little bit of blue smoke if you plug in a fully charged 48v battery, so this kind of modification was not needed.
I had some problems identifying the colour of the wires inside the LCD cable until I took it outside in the daylight... but I found this plug schema on the internet
We are interested by the brown wire and not the orange one (which looked red inside with artificial light). PS my yellow wire is in fact white.
Then you need a TVS diode (Transient Voltage Suppressor) which comes with a large choice of breakdown voltages. For my battery 6v is the ideal number - maximum charge 49.8v - 6v = 43.8v. The diode is soldered inline on the brown wire with the band away from the LCD like so:
The reading on the LCD when I tested just now was 40.5v and on the watt meter connected to the battery 46.9v.
So what can go wrong?
- your LVC (low voltage cutoff) on the LCD will be affected. If it is set to 30v that is not much of a problem with the 12S 44v battery I have. You could wire in a bypass with a switch to turn off the diode when your real battery voltage reaches 42v.
- the reading on your display will not show the correct voltage. Mentally you can add 6v or just ignore the voltage display because on my LCD it isn't correct even before the modification... I prefer reading my battery voltage from the watt meter which I always have plugged inline.
- the TVS diode gets rid of the excess 6v as heat but the current is tiny so it should never be above 90ºC. As you can see I will cover the diode with heat shrink tube and inside the vélomobile it is protected from the weather.
And the motor? From previous experience the motor will have more punch, my previous motor even ran more quietly at 44v than when at 36v. If you spin at a slower cadence - 60 to 70 RPM - there is no real advantage.
So all I need to do know is road test and enjoy the comfort of using my natural cadence once again.