The Immeasurable Wilds

[Dynamik]

EVA: With the "Union act" the question about the status of Scotland was actually settled. But the last chapter of Scotlands Independance was written on the battlefield. In 1745 the son of the disposed King James VII, better known as "Bonny Prince" landed in Scotland with a large army in the Western Isles. After some initial success he had to draw back his troups and in Culloden, not far from Inverness, it came to the final disastrous battle. Within two hours the army of Bonny Prince suffered an overwhelming and bloody defeat. While more than 2000 of his soldiers lost their lives on the battlefield Bonny prince could escape and flee to the Western Isles. With the help of a young women (Flora Macdonald), who put him in the cloths of her maid, he could reach the Isle of Skye. There he boarded a French ship, which ferried him to France. He never returned to Scotland. But for Scotland this defeat had longlasting consequences: Scots were not allowed to wear weapons, the wearing of the tartan, the traditional clothing of the Scots, was prohibited. Even the use of the bagpipes was banned.

This was in the years after Culloden, i.e. after 1745. Now, 280 years later, Scotland is a prosperous part of Great Britain. The tartan and the bagpipes are an important part of the Scottish culture. Millions of tourists are pouring into Scotland every year to admire the traditional costumes and to listen to the sound of the bagpipes.

Today DYNAMIK crossed the border of Scotland. Maybe this short history of Scotland helps to better understand what we find today in this land full of old castles and other historic sites.


Eyemouth, 20.6.25

At 10 o clock I left the ferry and headed Northwards. Its a different world here. All these old brick buidings and old churches. Everything is so neat.


Typical English houses in North Shield (North of Newcastle)

And then outside Newcastle the small roads along the coast. You coudn´t wish for more. I passed Alnwick and later Berwick using mostly the Coastal Road. And then I crossed the Scotish border. You can´t miss it. They have big signs.


Coastal Road near Bamburgh


Crossing the Scottish border

Eyemouth was the place I had selected for tonight. But without hotel reservation it can get very exciting. A group of girls from the football ground screamed as they saw me and accompagnied me to the first hotel. But no success. Two other hotels in the center of the village were also full. Its because in Scotland the summer vacation have already started, I have been told. While I was leaving Eyemouth with not really knowing what to do, a women shouted in the nicest Scottish dialect that my velomobile is really beautiful. I took this opportunity to ask her about B&B. She was so nice and phoned all her friends but to no avail. Eventually she called the hotel "The Ships quarter". As expected it was full too but upon some discussions about my desperate situation they found a solution and I got my room. Sometimes in life you need an exceptional portion of good luck.

 

[Dynamik]

EVA: Now we are really in Scotland. The first historic site appeared already in the morning when we approached Dunbar: The Memorial for the battle of Dunbar 1650 where Cromwell defeated the Scots. Unfortunately Cromwell does not appear in my short history of Scotland. DYNAMIK said that Cromwell didn't have a lasting effect. For today a visit of Stirling castle and of the battlefield of Bannockburn was planned. Both places belong to the most important historic sites of Scotland. But as rain set in DYNAMIK decided to take the shortcut over the famous bridge over the Firth of Forth. So no pictures of Stirling and Bannockburn.

Kirkcaldy, 21.6.25

A sunny morning waited for me. In Eyemouth it was almost too hot. A short stop in Dunbar to visit the memorial of the battle in 1650 where Cromwell defeated the Scots. In Dunbar I also got an adapter for EU -UK. Yesterday in Eyemouth I discovered that my adapter has remained on my desk at home. Without an adapter I can't charge my equipment and that is the reason why the Garmin plot below is not complete.


Memorial for the battle of Dunbar 1650

Soon the fog set in. In Edinburgh it was really cold. I skipped the old town of Edinbugh and followed insteaad the seafront to find the access to the big bridges. I didn't even know which one is open for bicycles. Finally I got on the cable stayed bridge. There is a large lane on the left side which nobody used. So I assumed this is my lane. It is an impressive feeling to cross the the Firth of Forth with a tiny velomobile on such a huge bridge.

Meanwhile it started to rain and I stopped for a late lunch. But soon the sun came out again and I continued Westward. At four a clock I made the first attempt to getting a hotel room. No luck, but the receptionist was very helpful and secured me a room in the next town of Kirkcaldy. It is not a hotel I would have chosen myself. Modern and outside of the town. But on a saturday evening you certainly cannot be choosy. The town of Kirkcaldy is nothing special and the seafront even less.


Main street of Kirkcaldy


Seafront of Kirkcaldy

Back in the hotel I discovered that the adapter from Dunbar was not EU - UK but India - UK. But with a screwdriver and a plyer I made it work.


Shortly before Edinburgh the batteries of my Garmin gave up

 

[Dynamik]

EVA: Traveling to Scotland in the second half of the 18. century was an adventure proably like canoeing the Amazonas for us today. Samuel Johnson - the famous English writer - was one of the first to embark on such an adventure. In 1773 at the age of sixty-three he travelled with his friend Boswell from Edinburgh to Inverness and then further Westwards to the Hebrides.

Our journey of today from Kirkcaldy to Stonehaven is what Johnson and Boswell covered in four days in a cart drawn by two small horses. Johnson was impressed by the quality of the roads. He writes: "Where the bottom is rocky, as it seems commonly to be in Scotland, a smooth way is made indeed with great labour."

In St. Andrews they visited the ruins of the Cathedral. In disapointment he writes: " ... even the ruins cannot long be visible, unless some care be taken to preserve them; and where is the plesure of preserving such mournful memorials? They have been till very lately so much neglected, that every man carried away the stones who fancied that he wanted them." Well, Johnson might be surprised if he saw the ruins today.

Of course they also visited the Arbroath Abbey. Johnson writes: "The monastery of Aberbrothik is of great renown in the history of Scotland. Its ruins afford ample testimony of its ancient magnificence: Its extent might, I suppose, easily be found by following the walls among the grass and weeds." Again, Johnson would be surprised to see how well the Abbey of Arbroath is reconstructed.

They proceeded Northwards to Aberdeen. Johnson notes: "We travelled on with the gentle pace of a Scotch driver, who having no rivals in expedition, neither gives himself nor his horses unnecessary trouble." But they reached Aberdeen four days after leaving Edinbourgh.

Now lets see what DYNAMIK writes about this part of the journey:

Stonehaven, 22.6.25

Today was a historic day. First stop was St. Andrews with its famous Cathedral. Famous for the romantic ruins. And then St. Andrews has the oldest University of Scotland. While I was having a hot chocolate with cake just in front of tha cathedral ruins a young man asked me if I am the owner of the velomobile outside. He owned a VAW and he even new the sad story about ALVA who is kept prisoner in Greece. ALVA seems to be world famous.


Ruins of the Cathedral of St. Andrews

Next stop was Arbroath. The Abbey of Arbroath is the place where in 1330 the Sovereignity of Scotland has been accepted by the pope. For the next 400 years Scotland has been an independent kingdom. But in 1710 Scotland became again part of UK.


Abbey of Arbroath

From Abroath I travelled further along the coast to Montrose and finally to Stonehaven. Stonehaven is a good place to stop. A nice harbour and the ruins of Dunnottar castle. Dunnottar castle is best known as the place where the Scottish Crown Jewels were hidden from Cromwell.


Ruins of Dunnottar Castle

 

[Dynamik]

EVA: Johnson and Boswell made virtually the same itinary from Aberdeen to Elgin as DYNAMIK did today. They visited the Buller of Buchan and was excited. He must have found the right path to the spectacular rock formation. DYNAMIK somehow got lost on the muddy path but he won't mention this in the diary. Johnson writes: "... we soon turned our eyes to the Buller of Buchan, which no man can see with indifference, who has either sense of danger or delight in rarity." The rest of the journey was for Johnson rather boring. He was also a bit upset about the dinner they got in Elgin. He writes: "About noon we came to Elgin, where in the inn, that was supposed to be the best, a dinner was set before us, which we could not eat. This was the first time, and except one, the last, that I found any reason to complain of a Scottish table."

Now lets see what DYNAMIK writes in his diary:

Buckie, 23.6.25

This morning at six a clock the sun was already up in the sky but the hotel didn´t offer breakfast. So I was quite early on the road. In no time I reached Aberdeen and could cross the town before the traffic was too bad. While I was heading towards Peterhead dark clouds appeard and it started to rain. A good moment for a stop at Cruden Bay to get a full Scottish Breakfast. That should last for the whole day. An hour later the rain had stopped and I carried on.

A short visit to the Bullers of Buchan (a famous cliff formation) was not so exciting as the footpath was muddy and slippery.


Bullers of Buchan

Peterhead and Fraserburgh are big fishing towns but not really attractive. But after Fraserburgh the scenery changed. This part of the coast, between Fraserburgh and Inverness, is really beautiful and untouched by modern industry.


The coast after Fraserburgh

The road is often close to the water but with many detours over steep hills. On one occasion I had to push my Velomobile as the gradient was 17 %.


Here I had to push EVA

This coast has also a large number of old fisherman ports which seem virtualy untouched by modern fishing industry. Buckie is one of those and here I found a lovely old hotel, the Brigg and Barrel.


My hotle in Buckie

 

[Dynamik]

EVA: In Inverness we left the itinary of Johnson and Boswell. We headed North while Johnson and Boswell turned to the west at Inverness and made their way to the Western Isles. It seems that Johnson was a bit disapointed. He writes: "We came thither too late to see what we expected, a poeple of peculiar appearance, and a system of antiquated life .. Of what they had before the late conquest of their country, there remains only their language and their poverty." I guess DYNAMIK was quite happy that things have turned to the better. Perfect roads, excellent food and a warm bed every evening.

Durnoch, 24.6.25

The day started well with half a Scottish breakfast. That was more than enough for me and the road ahead. The road was easy, good tarmac and no mountains. At eleven o clock I reached Nairn. Nairn is a place to remember. My wife Karin and me have been here on our first common holiday. That was back in 1972. Thats more than 53 years ago. Its still a lovely town and I had a commemorative hot chocolate.


Nairn, a lovely old town

I continued on the coastal road to Inverness and entered the county of Sutherland. Some 800 years earlier this bit of land was owned by the Norwegian Kings and for them this area is in the South, therefore Sutherland.


Crossing the Dornoch Firth

It is still quite flat here and I could find no wild things. Except the prices for the hotels. We are now in the neighbourhood of the Dunrobin Castle and this seem to increase the prices somewhat. The hotel I found in Durnoch ist called the Castle Hotel but it never has been a castle it is a converted old farmhouse. They have preserved the old structure and everything is nicely done.


My Hotel in Dornoch

We are here also in Whisky country. On the small table in my room there is not a bottle of water as usual but a small bottle of whisky. Best quality.

 

[Dynamik]

EVA: Today we are driving up the most Northerly part of Scotland, a part which only a few travelers ventured to visit in the 18. century. Bishop Forbes made the journey from Inverness to Thurso in 1762. Mitchell writes in his book The Immeasurable Wilds: "(The Bishop) having left his wife in Inverness as he knew just how poor the roads would be, and having forded the river at Helmsdale, he was then faced with Ord Hill, and proudly announced that he 'rode up every inch of it, a thing rarely done by any persons ... Its steepness, and being all along on the very brink of a precipice are the only difficulties'. It was so steep 'that no machine can be drawn up it by any cattle whatsoever, unless it be empty; and even then, there must be some sturdy fellows at the back of it pushing it forward to assist the horses; for if they are allowed to make the least stop, backward they must tumble by the very declivity of the place.

I guess DYNAMIK has seen steeper hills in the Swiss mountains and having a gearing of 32 (in front) to 46 (in the rear) crawled up the "terrible hill" at a leisurly pace.

Vick, 25.6.25

Dunrobin Castle was - without any doubt - the highlight of today. It is a fairy tale castle par excellence. It stands upon a rock and overlooks a fantastic garden and a vast blue sea. The rooms are so beautiful and nicely furnished. Even the doll houses for the dukes children can be seen. They showed us tamed falcons and hawks and it is quite amazing what these birds can do.


Dunrobin Castle


One of the dining rooms. Unfortunately I was not invited

After chocolate and cake in the castle cafeteria I went back on the road. North of Helmsdale the steepest bit awaited me. This steep part was dreaded already 300 years before our time and most poeple took here the inland route. But in a velomobile with good gearing and a lot of patience all can be done. Twenty kilometers before Vick, the destination for today, my batteries were down. Refueling was needed in a bakery. The lady admired EVA and wanted to know where I am comming from. When I told her that I have pedalled from Switzerland to here she exclaimed:"How insane". But her hot chocolate and cake were superbe and brought me safely to Vick.


After the steep ascent of Helmsdale the road was flat again til Vick

 

[Dynamik]

EVA: Today DYNAMIK has reached the final destination of this journey. Most poeple after reaching John o' Groats load their bike in the car of friends or in the bus and travel homewards. I guess they are happy to have reached the goal and also a bit sad that all is over now. I bet that DYNAMIK was sincerely happy that this is not possible with a velomobile. You must bring it home yourself. But this gives you another two weeks of velomobile riding.

John o' Groats, 26.6.25

The shortest street of the whole world - according to Guiness - has a length of 2.06 m. And this is actually the front door of the Hotel Makays, the hotel I slept in yesterday. Luckily I didnt get the triangular room over the front door. The street has one number and this is the bistro to the hotel.


Mackays Hotel on the shortest street of the world

I left this special hotel this morning and reached before lunchtime John o' Groats, the final destination of my trip. 1800 km on three wheels without the slightest problem. The place was full of bicyclists and everybody shared his story. It was a nice gathering. A young women arrived on her racing bike. She just made it from Lands End to John o' Groats. Yes, it had a bit more mountains than she had expected. But she made it. A couple from Australia made it on foot. It took them three month. All of them were happy and ready to talk about their unique journey.


John o' Groats the final goal of so many bicycle tours

Castle of Mey and its gardens were the next highlight. The Queen Mother used to come here. The castle has a huge walled garden with wonderful flowers. In the main dining room there was a stags head. The story goes that the Queen mother said once, that each castle must have a stags head. So a friend brought her a stags head made of fur. It looked a little bit like a teddy bear. The big ears covered the eyes. "No wonder it was shot" the Queen Mother said when she received the present.


Castle May and its famous walled garden


A paradise of roses

Finally I paid a visit to the Duncansby Stacks. And even the sun was slightly cooperative for the picture.


The Duncansby Stacks

 

[Dynamik]

EVA: This morning DYNAMIK faced a difficult decision: Which way to take for the way back to Switzerland? Follow the Northern coast to cape Wrath and from there take the road over the mountains to Inverness or visit the Orkneys and take the ferry back to Aberdeen. He has been on the Orkneys ten years ago. Not with me but with his wife and on two Scorpion trikes. Since then I guess the National Health System (NHS) has a questionable reputation in Scotland. His wife went into a pharmacy to by some sun cream while DYNAMIK was waiting with the Scorpions outside. A Scotsman approached DYNAMIK and asked if the women was disabled that she had to use such a vehicle. DYNAMIK answered: "Yes, the women has difficulties in walking. So NHS has paid her this trike. They are also paying me and my trike to assist her on her travels." The Scotsman stamped off in dismay, knowing now where his money is so badly squandered.

Kirkwall, 27.6.25

A weather forecast in Scotland is quite simple: It will be sunny with rain inbetween and lots of wind or the other way round. Usually this fits. Today I started in John o' Groats in a drizzle. And as the sun did not show signs of appearing I decided to take the ferry to the Orkneys. During the ferry crossing the weather turned to bright sunshine so I had a nice welcome in St. Margarets Hope.

The first stop was the Italian Chapel. Italian prisoners of war, who were working on the Churchill Barriers during WW II, built this chapel during their free time. Appart from beeing confined, they seemed to have had a relatively good time. They played football against the British and were quite good at it. Once they caught a seagull and painted one wing green and the other red and shouted: "Italian airplanes in the sky". For this they were severely punished for cruelty against animals.


The Italian Chapel made of a II WW barack


With a lot of dedication the Italian prisonors of war created a place of worship

Now I am sitting in a cafe bistro in Kirkwall with hot chocolate and cake. I have already visited the cathedral. It has an impressive size and is quite nice inside. As it is brightening up outside I will further explore the town. Tonight at 11 o' clock I will take the ferry to Aberdeen.


Kirkwall Cathedral

 

[Dynamik]

EVA: I guess DYNAMIK will never again go on a ferry without booking a cabin. After a sleepless night on a sofa he was so glad to take me from the ship and start pedealling. Roads are so much better and we covered easily 150 km.

Lundin, 28.6.25

Last night was not quite relaxing. The ferry from Kirkwall to Aberdeen had no cabins for me. So I found a nice place on a sofa. But soon a couple from the Shetlands joined me and talked and talked. Actualy it was quite interesting to listen to this Scottish dialect. But why does every sentence need do have at least three f* words. He said for instance: "Oh, it was f* ing hell yesterday." and she replied: "What the f* do you mean." And it went along like this, talking about drugs in the family and divorces and so on and all with a lof of f* words, until I fell assleep.

Next morning in Aberdeen the weather was dry and sunny and I reached Dundee allredy at midday, The Tay bridge is quite special. It has a middle lane for bicycles and pedestrians. With strong wind it can be quite precarious. At the end of the bridge over the Tay a group of Harley drivers spotted me and invited me for a drink. They were really excitet about EVA. Finally one of them offered me 10 Pounds for he "Good Reason". I had to decline. I explained him that I am doing that for purely egoistical reasons.


Coastal road near Montrose


Dundee Tay Bridge with the bicaycle lane in the middle


Coastal Road with Dundee Tay Bridge in the background

In the afternoon I passed St. Andrews. The derelict Cathedral looks even more romantic in sunshine. Finaly I reached Lundin with the famous prehistoric stones. The hotel "Old Mansion" had a nice room but the prehistoric stones I couldn't find.. They are part of the ladies golf ground and this one was closed. So I went back to the hotel and enjoyed an evening meal with a unique view over the golf course and the bay.


A glass of white vine and a spectacular view, what more could you wish!

 

[Jupp]

Fantastisch. Danke für den Bericht!

 

[HFKLR]

Endlich mal eine Schottland-Reise, ohne dass ich da hin muss...

 

[Cars10]

Aaarghh ...
Ich hatte gehofft, dass EVA & Dynamik bei Iverness nach Süd-Westen abbiegen um entlang von Loch Ness und Loch Lochy sich nach Glasgow durch schlagen. Das wären auch noch einige epische Burgen Fotos, die wir jetzt verpassen. Tja, selber machen ...
Weiterhin gute Reise Euch beiden!

 

[Dynamik]

EVA: So far we have covered 2'200 km without any mechanical problem. DYNAMIK didn't even need to pump the tires in these three weeks.

Dunbar, 29.6.25

Again a sunny day with wonderful scenery. The road followed the coastline. After chocolate and cake in lovely Burntisland I was ready to tackle the Big Bridge crossing the Firth of Forth. Lukily a local cyclist showed me the way over the middle bridge. This leads to Queensferry, a marvel of an Old Scottisch town.


The famous railway bridge over the Firth of Forth. It has been completed in 1890 and is considered a symbol of Scotland.

From Queensferry there is a bicycle path along the shore. But this is nothing for velomobiles. I had to turn back after a few kilometers and follow the normal road. Once I had reached Portobello the scenery was again wonderful. Lots of golf courses, lots of grazing cattle. I passed the ruins of Tantalon Castle with its famous rock out in the sea.


Tantallon Castle looking out to the Bass Rock

Towards 6 o' clock I reached Dunbar, time to search for a Hotel. But Dunbar is declining. I took the best looking hotel "The Royal Macintosh", but also this building is in a "difficult" condition. When I asked at the bar for a recommendation for a nice restaurant, the lady said, I should got to the Pizza Place. Upon my reply, that I didn't come to Scotland to eat pizza, she said: "But I love pizza very much." Finally I found a good evening meal at the Chinese.


Also this hotel has seen better times

 

[Dynamik]

EVA: This evening DYNAMIK was not in the best mood. The hotel was not bad. It had a nice view over the beach. But when it came to the evening meal it was a big disapointement. DYNAMIK walked twice through the whole village to find out that only three take-aways were open. A holiday resort without a restaurant? Times have changed.

Newbigging-by-the-Sea, 30.6.25

We are heading South. Its getting really warmer. In Berwick it was time for the first chocolate with cake. While I was looking out of the window I saw something really extraordinary. A seagull lifted a cup of coffee with her beak and put it on the ground. So she could get to the coffee. Isnt that clever.

Refreshed I carried on taking this time always the coastal road. I even made a short visit to the Holy Island Lindisfarne. Here they have buildt the first monastery in 634. On Lindisfarne you must be careful to leave before the tide rises. Or you might be caught on the island.


Approaching Lindisfarne

Later I made a short stop at Banburgh Castle (without visit). The holiday resorts here are quite posh, especially Banburgh or Seahouses.


Bamburgh Castle

The road was nice to travel. On a steep ascent a women on a handbike passed me and shouted "What bike is that?". And she was gone. Velomobiles are not so fast uphill. Later we met again and hat a long chat. She is paralysed from the hips downward and does all the pedalling with her arms. She has electric assistance and so she can cover quite a good distance per day. Together with her husband they are making long bicycle tours. Isnt that courageous.

Towards 6 o' clock I reached Newbigging-by-the-Sea. Its not a terribly posh place. The hotel "The Old Ship" had decent rooms but no food only a bar. All restaurants were closed so I had to resort to take-away. I don't like to do that in a hotel but no food is not a solution neither. At least the beer in front of me is from the hotel bar.


The Old Ship in Newbigging-by-the-Sea

 

[Dynamik]

EVA: We are leaving Great Britain. For DYNAMIK Great Britain means a lot. He has been foreign language assistant in England for a full year in 1974. He tried to teach the English youngsters a little bit of German. They liked him and taught him English. Twelve years later he spent two month in Aberdeen trying to find out why a oil platform was lopsided. Was it a dynamic problem or just a settlement problem? Now after his retirement the problems to solve have become a bit easier. For instannce which way to take to return to Switzerland. Boundary condition 1: Minimize the distance. Boundary condition 2: No mountains. It seems that the route along the Rhine is the best way. Rivers do not flow over mountains.

Ferry Newcastle - Amsterdam, 1.7.25

No breakfast today. The lady of the hotel could offer one not before 9 o clock. At the most she conceded to have it ready at 8.45. So I started at 7.30 with an empty stomac southwards. I wanted to be early enough to get a ferry ticket to Amsterdam. The road along the coast is quite nice. Tynmouth is a little marvel. But I couldnt stop before I had my ticket. The signs for the ferry harbourb could be a bit better. Anyway, I got my ticket WITH a cabin and returned to Tynemouth for my last chocolate and cake. The lady at the coffee shop was quite impressed by EVA and also by the distance I have covered so far.

The rest of the day was pritty uneventful. At 2.00 on the ship and at 5.00 sailing southwards. We passed the little village of Tynemouth. The castle in the background is the same as the castle in the first picture


My last last chocolate and cake in GB


Ready for the ferry to Amsterdam


Leaving Newcastle

 

[Dynamik]

EVA: It seems that DYNAMIK cannot get used to the bicycle path system of Netherland. We are stopping at each intersection to study street signs and are still getting lost. No wonder that we covered only 75 km today. Tomorrow we will reach the river Rhine and there navigation will be much easier. We just have to follow the blue (or grey) band of the Rhine. I for my part cannot complain. Tonight I got a special place in a "Bike Hotel" as you can see in the picture below.

Utrecht, 2.7.25

We have left Scotland and are heading towards the Rhine. Maybe one of my readers ventures to climb the Rock of Loreley and waves with a golden comb when I pass by. In the last days Scotland was a bit too cold. On the continent the temperatur made a jump from 15 to 30 degrees. Have they nothing inbetween?

In the Netherland it is not easy to find your way. You must use bicycles routes and those are badly marked. Eventually I reached Utrech and this is enough for to day.


A nice part of Amsterdam. It must by romantic to live here.


Bicycle path along the canal near Utrecht


That's the place for EVA, really posh.

 

[MartinvanMourik]

In the Netherland it is not easy to find your way. You must use bicycles routes and those are badly marked.

Well, you don't have to follow bicycle routes. Most experienced long distance riders would ignore those direction signs in red letters on white most of the time. They are mostly there for people who think riding a bicycle from one town or village to next is quite the physical accomplishment. They take you from one village/town/city center to the next, that's not ideal if you want to cover some distance.

You sure have maximised the amount of inner city riding today, quite a few cities and towns you went through could have been avoided.

If you don't use a navigation device or app, and would like to find some more scenic routes, are you aware of the fietsknooppunten?
https://www.fietsnetwerk.nl/de/ | https://fietsroutenetwerk.nl/routeplanner
Many of the knooppunten have a map where you can plan a couple of knooppunt numbers ahead.

To get from Utrecht to the Rhine, may i suggest this route?

BRouter web client

I think the ride around Houten along the Amsterdam-Rijnkanaal is nice. The road along the Amsterdam-Rijnkanaal between Wijk bij Duurstede and Tiel is very quiet, it's my favourite when heading south from Doorn where I live.

The old waterfront at Nijmegen is worth a short visit, I think. Following the dike along the south bank of the Waal takes you there. If you'd rather avoid it the dike along the north bank of the Waal is good to ride as well.

There is a ferry at Wijk bij Duurstede (operates 06:00 - 24:00, pay by card or in cash), if you really don't want that, you could take the bridge at Vianen and follow the Lekdijk, but you would have to find your way all the way through Nieuwegein, for example like so:

BRouter web client

Tomorrow is saturday and that's a perfect day to experience the fiets-file (Fahrradstau) in the city centre of Utrecht. You'll find it at the streets named Vredenburg - Lange Viestraat - Neude. (https://brouter.de/brouter-web/#map...,52.092731;5.11876,52.093509&profile=fastbike)

While you're there you could also have a look at the worlds largest bicycle parking at the central railway station.

If you do go to Utrecht city centre, following the singel (Catharijnesingel, Weerdsingel, Wittevrouwensingel, Maliesingel, the canal around the historic centre) is a good way to get around the city centre.

 

[Dynamik]

EVA: A velomobile has one disadvantage: The comfort is so high that you do not like to stop and get out. For instance today we drove through Nijmegen - the oldest city of Netherland - and DYNAMIK did not stop. Only later he found out what he has missed.

Xanten, 3.7.25

It is a new experience to travel with a velomobile in a region where there are absolutely no mountains. It's so much easier. Once you have accelerated to 30 km/h you have nothing to do. Just keep pedalling a little bit to keep the speed. Everywhere they have canals and dykes. It's beautiful. In Wijk they had a small ferry. Gives a nice interruption.


Ferry of Wijk

This afternoon I left Netherland and entered Germany. In Kleve, where I made a short stop, a man came to me and explained that he too had a trike. But his family said that this is for poeple with disabilities, so he sold it. He suggested that Xanten is a good place to stop. And it really is.


Medieval town centre of Xanten


Xanten Cathedral

 

[Dynamik]

EVA: The diary notes of DYNAMIK are getting shorter. It seems that the River Rhine does not live up to the expectations.

Köln, 4.7.25

The Romantic Rhine Route? So far I havent seen much of it. Germany is an industrial country and all industries seetled along the Rhine. As bicyclist you are mostly quite a bit away from the water. Once I saw a sign for a ferry to Monheim. That must be lovely and I followed the sign. On the way to the ferry it was really picturesque but the ferry runs only Saturday and Sunday. Bad luck.


One of the rare moments (near Monheim) when the biycle path was close to the Rhine

The further jouney was pretty unventful. At six o' clock I reached Köln and got a simple room not far from the Dome. A least EVA has a splendid view of the Dome.


EVA in front of the "Kölner Dom"


And if the light is switched on it is even better

 

[Dynamik]

EVA: I guess DYNAMIK has learned something. Hotels can be booked via internet.

Koblenz, 5.7.25

The section between Köln and Koblenz is really what I understand under "Romantic Rhine Tour". The Rhine meanders trough different mountain ranges and the bicycle path is almost right beside the Rhine. Many small touristic villages have settled here. I would say it was one of the most beautiful days so far. And the big advantage: No mountains to climb.

In Bonn I went into a cafeteria. Before I ordered I made sure that they have free wifi. This way I could not only enjoy a good coffe but also see what hotels they have in Koblenz and reserve the hotel room. On a saturday night this is quite advisable.

Koblenz is a well preserved old town. It is a bit noisy but it is Saturday evening.


Romantic bicycle path (near Remagen)


Traffic on the Rhine is quite substantial


Old town centre of Koblenz