Neige-Quad

Für die, die es interessiert, kann man mein Liegedreirad mit Neigetechnik (carving trike) auf youtube anschauen. Seit dem video sind noch mal Änderungen vorgenommen worden. Der Lenker wurde abgeändert und die Hinterräder 6 cm nach hinten versetzt. Es kommt noch ein stärkerer Motor rein und das Hinterteil bekommt eine Verkleidung. Eine Vollverkleidung wie bei Velomobilen wird es nicht geben.
Grüße Stefan
 
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I try to break down the "Tumbler Toy" effect as experienced by me on my specific tilting tadpole trike, which I was not riding for several years but plan to do so in 2026 again. My summary will help me to get into it again.

Tilting. Sure, but what actually tilts? For my trike, I would argue at first, tilting and steering are statically not entangled. When at rest I can use the handlebars to steer the front wheels while the frame of the trike stays in an upright position. And the other way around, at rest I can tilt the frame to the left and to the right by also using the handlebars while the front wheels always show straight ahead. But you already migh feel how I'm cheating here: I'm not sitting on the trike, but stand next to it with my feet on the ground, which provides the required counterforce when moving the handlebar in the different directions. The other cheat is to look only at the tilting angle of the frame.

20170424_201319_processed.png

A second glance reveals that even when keeping the frame in an upright position the front wheels (26") themselves already tilt at steering. In the most extreme steering position the inner curve wheel has a tilting angle of about 25° and the outer wheel has about 5°. The specific numbers don't mean much without precisely describing the construction, which I avoid for the moment. These angles have been measured at rest with an upright frame (0° tilt angle of the frame) and with dismounted seat which allows even more extreme steering (otherwise the seat would physically stop the handlebars earlier, leading to smaller front wheel tilt angles). The different front wheel tilt angles are by construction (I avoid technical names like caster angle and ackerman steering). Leaving the frame alone, for the front wheels steering and tilting always come together.

Sitting on the upright but resting trike means to sit on the top of a potential curve describing an unstable equilibrium. In this position you can fell over to the left or to the right side. With an upright frame and when steering to the left, then falling to the left side feels expected. But falling to the right side is possible as well (when steering left), and I was very surprised finding me in this position for the first time, an impossibe position which never would happen while driving at speed, and which could damage the contruction if I remember correctly.

Static considerations are easier to follow, because you can check them out while the trike stands in front of you. Dynamical concepts are harder to get into. But riding such a trike feels easy and natural once you learned it (similar to a normal bike). Dynamic stability of bicycles, uff. Maybe there are differences between classical upright bikes and tilting trikes, maybe these are only small. I noticed, while cornering is a real nice experience, riding a straigh line is more difficult with that trike than with an upright bike. I wonder why. I see two differences: the height of the CoM is much less and the force vector is not perpendicular to the contact surface between the wheels and the ground (hmm, at the next regional fair I should test riding such a modern tadpole tilting cargo bicycle). For the moment I believe that the low CoM makes balancing more difficult (shorter lever), a straight line with my trike is a sequence of steering corrections to just keep on top of that potential curve. A tilt break could have two functions then: keeping the direction and not falling over and off.

In the picture above you see all the pivots and connections. Bending the back introduces tilting the frame, which tilts the wheels und introdcues cornering. The handlebars steer the wheels in a direction, they tilt and take the frame with them. Until now all was about leaning into the curve or falling off the trike or rolling from that potential curve. How to get back from there? Too much for me, I would say. So I stay with what I experienced. From the two ways to lean into a curve only the handlebars would bring the bike in an upright position again. Hmm, I should probably test out two things during this year: can I ride straight ahead in the tilted position of the frame (probably only with counter steering) and can I get in an upright position again by just leaning over extremely to the other side? Gloves and helmet mandatory.

Eventually the already mentioned acceleration at low speeds to bring back the trike into the upright position. This accelerates the whole trike via its rear wheel. I would image that this superimposes an acceleration to the front wheels which helps them leaving their curve on a tangential trajectory for that short moment. This kicks the trike out of the curve and helps getting the front wheels a littler more upright again into a more stable parameter regime from where the rider can pick up the trike again instead of falling over.

This is a small version of that "Tumbler Toy" effect with my trike. The experience with your contructions is different, as you outlined before.
 
Hi Trikes.
Thanks for the thumbs-up and the comments above. Wow! Lots to think about. I'll respond to select items with an eye to highlighting the structural and performance attributes which might help velocars to be perceived as practical as well as enjoyable year-round commuter vehicles.
pure joy to "fly" rather than just "ride it"
Good point. Single track bicycles and especially motorcycles are lots of fun, but not in all types of weather and all seasons.
Tilting also provides a way to achieve a height-to-width ratio which can help velocars to be perceived as safe (to see and be seen in traffic) and practical (fits easily within cycle lanes).
it is possible to fall over with a free tilter
What configuration of free tilter do you have? I'm not sure what you mean by a tilting break. Is it a separate lever the rider grasps when needed? Is it possible to increase the leverage to generate more force?
this is probably what you call the "Tumbler Toy" effect
Yes and no. When I use the term lean-lock, I'm thinking of the entire mechanical tilt control apparatus as a variable lean-limiter. The apparatus has sufficient M A to actively return the vehicle from its maximum lean back to upright even at stops when gravity is in full force. Consequently I can choose to hold any specific lean angle within its tilting range. In that sense, lean-lock is more of a continuously adjustable constrain than an on/off feature.
What I'm calling the "Tumbler Toy" effect appears to involve 2 complimentary return-to-upright forces acting in sequence.
The first comes from the lean-lock itself. As I ease off the tilt control, the stored energy in the system is released smoothly much like a softly loaded spring returning the velo toward upright.
The secondary force appears to be related to what you're describing when you mention
where the acceleration (vector) interrupts (curve radius) and just uprights the trike
My interpretation is that this is associated with steering-induced forces - essentially counter steer. Although, by raising my inside shoulder, I introduce a steering input that promotes tilt in the opposite direction, (towards the outside outside of the curved path) because I'm already tilting to the inside of the corner, that input ends up assisting the return toward upright rather than opposing it.
The combination - a controlled release of lean plus steering induced righting - is what I've been referring to as "Tumbler Toy" effect.
with your trike this interception is indirectly because it aims at steering first, tilting follows indirectly

On the Tilt4orce tilting is first and paramount (DTC). Steering follows indirectly (FTC) as well as directly via the shoulder actuators.
When the trike tilts in an uncontrolled way by some cause outside your control?
I have a story to tell.
A number of years ago when I was still experimenting with the tadpole, (DTC + arm cranking + FTC Steering) the left front aluminium axle suddenly snapped in half as I was returning from a test ride. The 12mm axle suffered a complete break between the non-rotating hub and the wheel flange. The break was so sudden that there was no time to react - the momentum resulted in the breakaway wheel rolling forward down the residential street ahead of me.
Fortunately I was in DTC (not arm cranking) and the non-rotating left hub just dropped to the asphalt and started skidding along with my momentum, yet I was able to remain upright by controlling the tilt apparatus. I can't be certain, but I attribute the sudden break to material fatigue caused by the wobble and hump of my poorly centered and un-true pop riveted wheels.
At that time, manual steering consisted of inverted bicycle brake levers attached to the handles of the tilt levers. Didn't matter as there was no time to reach for and activate them anyway. This instant response is critical. Even with the little steering wheel at my fingertips, I still had to reach for it.
Would the actuators give your shoulders a hit?
Thanks for these thoughtful enquiries. You have just given me a good reason for another test ride.
I believe the shoulder "thingies" are an improvement over all previous actuators because I don't have to reach for them and they are always providing feedback on what the front wheel is doing when I'm in FTC mode. It's certainly worthwhile to keep testing them out in various riding situations. Thanks for the idea.
Also, thanks for your ongoing interest in my attempts to explain how my DTC design with 2 steering inputs operates. I spent all those years just experimenting with all sorts of constructs and arrangements (some were totally stupid), just looking to see what works best. In all that time I never fully understood the physics of tilting and steering. So trying to explain its operation on this forum is like a new chapter in my retirement project.
Cheers
 
I try to break down the "Tumbler Toy" effect as experienced by me on my specific tilting tadpole trike, which I was not riding for several years but plan to do so in 2026 again. My summary will help me to get into it again.

Tilting. Sure, but what actually tilts? For my trike, I would argue at first, tilting and steering are statically not entangled. When at rest I can use the handlebars to steer the front wheels while the frame of the trike stays in an upright position. And the other way around, at rest I can tilt the frame to the left and to the right by also using the handlebars while the front wheels always show straight ahead. But you already migh feel how I'm cheating here: I'm not sitting on the trike, but stand next to it with my feet on the ground, which provides the required counterforce when moving the handlebar in the different directions. The other cheat is to look only at the tilting angle of the frame.

Anhang anzeigen 429813

A second glance reveals that even when keeping the frame in an upright position the front wheels (26") themselves already tilt at steering. In the most extreme steering position the inner curve wheel has a tilting angle of about 25° and the outer wheel has about 5°. The specific numbers don't mean much without precisely describing the construction, which I avoid for the moment. These angles have been measured at rest with an upright frame (0° tilt angle of the frame) and with dismounted seat which allows even more extreme steering (otherwise the seat would physically stop the handlebars earlier, leading to smaller front wheel tilt angles). The different front wheel tilt angles are by construction (I avoid technical names like caster angle and ackerman steering). Leaving the frame alone, for the front wheels steering and tilting always come together.

Sitting on the upright but resting trike means to sit on the top of a potential curve describing an unstable equilibrium. In this position you can fell over to the left or to the right side. With an upright frame and when steering to the left, then falling to the left side feels expected. But falling to the right side is possible as well (when steering left), and I was very surprised finding me in this position for the first time, an impossibe position which never would happen while driving at speed, and which could damage the contruction if I remember correctly.

Static considerations are easier to follow, because you can check them out while the trike stands in front of you. Dynamical concepts are harder to get into. But riding such a trike feels easy and natural once you learned it (similar to a normal bike). Dynamic stability of bicycles, uff. Maybe there are differences between classical upright bikes and tilting trikes, maybe these are only small. I noticed, while cornering is a real nice experience, riding a straigh line is more difficult with that trike than with an upright bike. I wonder why. I see two differences: the height of the CoM is much less and the force vector is not perpendicular to the contact surface between the wheels and the ground (hmm, at the next regional fair I should test riding such a modern tadpole tilting cargo bicycle). For the moment I believe that the low CoM makes balancing more difficult (shorter lever), a straight line with my trike is a sequence of steering corrections to just keep on top of that potential curve. A tilt break could have two functions then: keeping the direction and not falling over and off.

In the picture above you see all the pivots and connections. Bending the back introduces tilting the frame, which tilts the wheels und introdcues cornering. The handlebars steer the wheels in a direction, they tilt and take the frame with them. Until now all was about leaning into the curve or falling off the trike or rolling from that potential curve. How to get back from there? Too much for me, I would say. So I stay with what I experienced. From the two ways to lean into a curve only the handlebars would bring the bike in an upright position again. Hmm, I should probably test out two things during this year: can I ride straight ahead in the tilted position of the frame (probably only with counter steering) and can I get in an upright position again by just leaning over extremely to the other side? Gloves and helmet mandatory.

Eventually the already mentioned acceleration at low speeds to bring back the trike into the upright position. This accelerates the whole trike via its rear wheel. I would image that this superimposes an acceleration to the front wheels which helps them leaving their curve on a tangential trajectory for that short moment. This kicks the trike out of the curve and helps getting the front wheels a littler more upright again into a more stable parameter regime from where the rider can pick up the trike again instead of falling over.

This is a small version of that "Tumbler Toy" effect with my trike. The experience with your contructions is different, as you outlined before.
I didn't realize that we were posting at similar times and this post came first.
Nice looking tadpole. At first glance it resembles the Tripendo with the dual wishbones and sprung suspension. I appreciate why you want to bring it out of storage.
Is it possible to provide a short video of the movement of the tilting and steering arrangements, as it is difficult for me to understand the operation from just from the text and photo.
Ok! So it just occurred to me that my explanation of the Tumbler Toy
I try to break down the "Tumbler Toy" effect as experienced by me on my specific tilting tadpole trike, which I was not riding for several years but plan to do so in 2026 again. My summary will help me to get into it again.

Tilting. Sure, but what actually tilts? For my trike, I would argue at first, tilting and steering are statically not entangled. When at rest I can use the handlebars to steer the front wheels while the frame of the trike stays in an upright position. And the other way around, at rest I can tilt the frame to the left and to the right by also using the handlebars while the front wheels always show straight ahead. But you already migh feel how I'm cheating here: I'm not sitting on the trike, but stand next to it with my feet on the ground, which provides the required counterforce when moving the handlebar in the different directions. The other cheat is to look only at the tilting angle of the frame.

Anhang anzeigen 429813

A second glance reveals that even when keeping the frame in an upright position the front wheels (26") themselves already tilt at steering. In the most extreme steering position the inner curve wheel has a tilting angle of about 25° and the outer wheel has about 5°. The specific numbers don't mean much without precisely describing the construction, which I avoid for the moment. These angles have been measured at rest with an upright frame (0° tilt angle of the frame) and with dismounted seat which allows even more extreme steering (otherwise the seat would physically stop the handlebars earlier, leading to smaller front wheel tilt angles). The different front wheel tilt angles are by construction (I avoid technical names like caster angle and ackerman steering). Leaving the frame alone, for the front wheels steering and tilting always come together.

Sitting on the upright but resting trike means to sit on the top of a potential curve describing an unstable equilibrium. In this position you can fell over to the left or to the right side. With an upright frame and when steering to the left, then falling to the left side feels expected. But falling to the right side is possible as well (when steering left), and I was very surprised finding me in this position for the first time, an impossibe position which never would happen while driving at speed, and which could damage the contruction if I remember correctly.

Static considerations are easier to follow, because you can check them out while the trike stands in front of you. Dynamical concepts are harder to get into. But riding such a trike feels easy and natural once you learned it (similar to a normal bike). Dynamic stability of bicycles, uff. Maybe there are differences between classical upright bikes and tilting trikes, maybe these are only small. I noticed, while cornering is a real nice experience, riding a straigh line is more difficult with that trike than with an upright bike. I wonder why. I see two differences: the height of the CoM is much less and the force vector is not perpendicular to the contact surface between the wheels and the ground (hmm, at the next regional fair I should test riding such a modern tadpole tilting cargo bicycle). For the moment I believe that the low CoM makes balancing more difficult (shorter lever), a straight line with my trike is a sequence of steering corrections to just keep on top of that potential curve. A tilt break could have two functions then: keeping the direction and not falling over and off.

In the picture above you see all the pivots and connections. Bending the back introduces tilting the frame, which tilts the wheels und introdcues cornering. The handlebars steer the wheels in a direction, they tilt and take the frame with them. Until now all was about leaning into the curve or falling off the trike or rolling from that potential curve. How to get back from there? Too much for me, I would say. So I stay with what I experienced. From the two ways to lean into a curve only the handlebars would bring the bike in an upright position again. Hmm, I should probably test out two things during this year: can I ride straight ahead in the tilted position of the frame (probably only with counter steering) and can I get in an upright position again by just leaning over extremely to the other side? Gloves and helmet mandatory.

Eventually the already mentioned acceleration at low speeds to bring back the trike into the upright position. This accelerates the whole trike via its rear wheel. I would image that this superimposes an acceleration to the front wheels which helps them leaving their curve on a tangential trajectory for that short moment. This kicks the trike out of the curve and helps getting the front wheels a littler more upright again into a more stable parameter regime from where the rider can pick up the trike again instead of falling over.

This is a small version of that "Tumbler Toy" effect with my trike. The experience with your contructions is different, as you outlined before.
Hi again.
I didn't realize that we were posting at much the same time and your post came first.
Nice looking Tadpole. At first glance it resembles the Tripendo with its dual wishbones and sprung suspension. I can appreciate why you want to bring it out of storage.
Is it possible to provide a short video of the movement of the tilting and steering arrangements, as it is difficult for me to understand the operation from just a photo and text?
Ok! So it just occurred to me that my text explanation of the "Tumbler Toy" effect will probably make more sense after watching the LBR video you inserted earlier. It shows the Tilt Control Apparatus in action starting at about 1:13:30 on the time line.
Cheers
 
It is this kind of disc break solution which you can find in several tilting trikes from the last two decades. It gives me the impression being a static solution for a dynamical problem. The brake caliper is mounted to the tilting frame and the brake disc segment is mounted to a separated part of the frame that connects to the lower control arms via some suspension and which does not tilt itself (roughly spoken).

IMG_5760_processed.png

This mechanical caliper only has one piston which needs to bend the disc segment, just as with normal disc brakes. But in this case the mounting points of the disc segment are close to the contact point with the piston, this is much different for normal bikes. The caliper's form factor was a big problem and I needed to try several calipers until I found one that could fit at this position. The static picture (2016) does not give a good impression on how narrow everything is there at the frame. When riding, certain frame parts are moving against each other, and the caliper has to fit all possible configurations of these parts. Later this year (2026) I plan to try out a 2-piston hydraulic caliper which could fit after some treatment with an iron file. This should increase significantly the tilting brake power, which needs to be proven. This tilt break has an extra lever at the handbars. Normally I use(d) it only for getting on / off the trike and I disgaged it with the first pedal movement. But I was courious if it could help as well while riding corners somehow or going fast straigh ahead.

Yep, will try to observe hiding counter steering, thought the same.

Nothing recent, only some older videos in postings here and here.

"Tumbler Toy" effect
Could be of course completely different, I mean, the trikes are much different. But, I understood, we have been both surprised that there is something that uprights the seat again. So, mayby not completely different. Will watch through your videos. Thanks!
 
On the Fast Fwd tilting trike there was also such a disc solution. I made a short few km test ride and was advised not to mes with the disc while riding. On a very quiet backroad i could not resist the urge to try. The second i applied the lever, i went out of control. I managed to make a safe stop, just about.

I can do Trikes, i can do bikes, but a vehicle that alters it's behavior between both with a lever was a bit to much for me.

That miracle force that uprights the tilt is simple centrifugal force. The same force that kept a pebble in the sling of our historic ancestors. Without moving the uprighting power is gone, probably.
 
This mechanical caliper only has one piston which needs to bend the disc segment, just as with normal disc brakes. [...]should increase significantly the tilting brake power, which needs to be proven.
Wim Schermer, Bram Smit, Piet Kunis und Jan Reus haben beim "VeloTilt" die Fixierung des Kippmechanismus per Fahrradscheibenbremse für zu schwach befunden und durch einen massiven Eigenbau ersetzt:
De grootste uitdaging en oorzaak van flink wat vertraging, de lock, werkt nu perfect.
IMG_1197.jpg
 
Hi Trikes. I like the way you quoted just a single word from my post. How is it done? For now I will continue the old school way.
"But I was curious if it (mechanical caliper tilt brake which is activated by an extra lever at the handbars) could help as well while riding corners or straight ahead." That kind of thinking reminds me of my thought process throughout my project. The advantage now is that this kind of forum provides valuable info such as low-flyer's experience about when and when-not to engage. As well, the info that Christoph S provided from Wim Schermer's blogspot helps to figure out which brake design works well.
My approach to design decisions went something like this. 1) Have I considered all reasonable alternatives? and, 2) What happens when I invert , reverse, or turn the idea/construct inside-out? 3) Now, let's put it to the test. Because I experimented in isolation (without posting on that DIY Builders site for the first decade) I built and tested some crazy constructs. No wonder it has taken me 16+ years ha! .
But now we have the advantage of sharing experiences which can accelerate things.
If velocars are to gain traction as the ideal all-season little vehicle for short to medium commutes we should continue this conversation
Cheers.
 
Select the text, quote via popup menue, probably depends on device and browser.
Screenshot 2026-02-03 213007.png



Throughout the forum there are many splitted discussions on tilting related topics. Cannot tell if searching englisch terms would work, maybe such search terms should be translated first into German language. There are also older offers to bye such vehicles with pictures, etc. There was once this dedicated thread, and more recently users enjoying this other thread. Not to forget the lizard from down under. ...



Crazy projects? Sure. And I always wonder, could I ride it? Gloves and helmet. Cheers. :)
 
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I can do Trikes, i can do bikes, but a vehicle that alters it's behavior between both with a lever was a bit to much for me.
I had a similar experience with the Zarabike tilting trike, which I tried at Spezi 2025. First my brain had to adjust to the tilting and after that riding in locked mode felt wrong and the handling is suddenly very different. But I guess you get used to it by switching back and forth a couple of times.
 
Part of the problem could also be, that a self tilting trike adjusts to a slightly cambered road, to forces when cornering. It's optimal, perfect for that very specific combination of factors. Speed, surface inclination, cornering forces. That however also results in that specific combo being not optimal for nearly all different situations with the triple factor combo being slightly different as well. The lean may be perfect in the turn, but not when you allready exited that turn, or when the cambered road is not that cambered anymore.

When parked, without a rider, many tilting designs have a certain ammount of friction in the tiltsystem that might keep it upright. Then again a slight push might be enough to make it tilt. Most won't fall over accidentaly i think.

With a non tilting vehicle the base position is with the centre of gravity between the wheels, and that's fine. Only under extreme factors, fast cornering, extreme angled road, the centre of gravity might move to far off base, causing the vehicle to tip over.

With a tilting vehicle, locking it in a tilted position, alters the base position and fixes it. That position might be anything but fine the next second. And your brain and body might not be fast enough to solve the resulting handling problem. The only way to solve it might be to unlock the tiltlever. But that might not be what your intuition comes up with. Theoreticaly there may be situations where a tiltingbrake might be usefull when riding. How long the stars are aligned properly for that to be good, might be a very short period. Practicaly there will be situations where a tiltbrake lever applied when riding will have disasterous results.
 
Thanks for sharing these experiences. Completely relatable. Yet I'm curious how it actually feels to lock the leaning trike in such a hard way while riding. Gloves and helmet. Probably never be able to test ride the Tilt4orce. Sadly.
 
Hi Trikes. Thanks for the links to the discussions on tilting trikes within the forum. A few years have gone by, but for me the key arguments and comments posted there are still valid. In the past few years, I have convinced myself that tilting could be one of the features that might help velocars to be perceived as a safe, practical, all-weather vehicle for getting about the city. Not chiefly due to cornering speed, but because tilting makes possible a height-to-width ratio which makes me feel safe in traffic and fits easily within cycle lanes. And because it's more fun than a non-tilter.
Cheers
 
@Velocoupe

My current view on the tilting topic is maybe this:

Two-wheeled upright bikes come with intrinsic tilting (front wheel and frame). You need to add stuff (training wheels = tilting break) to take the tilting feature away. The height of the CoM makes balancing easier.

The lower the CoM, there more difficult balancing becomes. I once tried to ride an older low-racer model (modern once are even lower), but I failed. This machine was impossible to ride, yet the previous owners could. To ride in someone else's pedals is quite an experience, I can tell. Only later on I found in the Internet some footage showing the manufacturer of this low-racer series with ... a training wheel attached to the frame. Even the Inventor cheated. Ok, there are several streamliners around with this kind of support for starting / ending the ride. Add an extra full rear wheel and some fancy mechanics to a low-racer and you have a tilting delta trike with an constantly attached training wheel (≠ tilting break, in this case).

For the other approach to tilting trikes I would start with a carriage. Patents are regional. In my region the patent for axel steering is from 1816, one year before Drais' patent, and two years before Ackermann's "associated" patent. Remove one rear wheel and do something to the rigid frame (= tilting break), for example introduce some fancy mechanics that allow parts of the frame moving against each other, and you have a tilting tadpole trike.

Delta and tadpole tilters are quite different in their complexity. I understand, that the delta layout does not carry as much extra stuff as the tadpole layout, its configuration and operation spaces have much less dimensions. Which is what you want for frequent usage. Yet, the higher complexity of the tadpole layout ... creates the bigger fascination for me.

I already referred to the lizard, also a tilting delta trike, or a low-racer with a training wheel. The inventor has published serveral articles about this machine in the magazine of the HPV organization in his country (more recent issues only for members). Should be these issues (no guarranty whatsoever): 2020-2-Jul, 2021-3-1, 2021-4-Dec, 2022–Mar, and 2023-3-Sep with a report from the Worlds 2023.
 
I'm still wondering why one would add a lot of complexity to a lowracer, cause when it's a free tilting trike, you can still fall over just as easily.
Ein Delta-Tieflieger mit Neigetechnik ist 1. nicht komplex und 2. fällt man damit auch nicht leicht, wenn er richtig konstruiert ist.
Ganz im Gegensatz zu allem Halbwissen zum Thema Neigetechnik in den unendlichen Weiten in diesem Forum.
 
Mit mein normalen Tieflieger fall ich auch nicht so einfach, meist nur wenn ein Rad wegrutscht, wenn etwas auf die Strasse liegt, oder ich zu schnell ne Kurve nimm. Wenn ich den Lizard sehe mit etwa 25 cm Spurbreite, und frei neigend, dann frag ich mich was so ein Rad nun besser macht als ein Zweirad. Wo ist der mehrwert, was kann es, was ein Zweirad nicht kann?

Ein freien Neiger tut nichts fur die Balance, weil nur die Lagerwiederstand da etwas macht, die Krafte sind zu gering um es aufrecht zu halten.

Es gibt auch irgendwo nen Video davon, wo das hintere Ende grip verliert, und anfängt zu bocken. Finde ich leider nicht. Ob so ein Neigedreirad schneller Kurven nehmen kann als ein Liegezweirad? Und wieso dann?
 
Greetings to all. Thanks for sharing your interest and experiences with the complexities of tilting and steering arrangements. From my experience I noticed that riding the quad or delta with the shell removed results in a more nimble ride-feel. The added weight and distribution of weight changes the feel when it comes to tilting.

Since velocars are primarily enclosed vehicles, and, if that all-weather feature affects tilting (at least the ride-feel), and , if sufficient and secure storage is to be built-in, and, if the embodiment of tilting affects the "beginner friendly" aspect of a particular design, then this endeavor is going to be a challenge. One takeaway from the review of the Tilt4orce is that -- specialized designs can be mastered by dedicated riders -- but most novice riders are looking for a "ride-away friendly" model. A design challenge indeed.
 
distribution of weight

I also think that this introduces a new dimension to the construction. I experience something similar with steering = tilting with the tadpole configuration. The previous owner decided to ride with these tires:

IMG_0768_processed.png

These tires felt like driving a tractor. I think they are also not necessary in presence of some air suspension. In an online shop of another country I found the most narrow slicks I could possibly get. With maximum air pressure in the tires this feels now like a road bike:

20220620_193446_processed.png

This weight decrease due to the tire selection (and implicit tube selection) makes a huge difference at the handle bars and directly affects the tilting trikes usability as experienced by the rider.

Of course, the tadpole front wheels do not compare much with the delta rear wheels when it comes down to tilting. But weight distribution matters in both cases. Have not thought this fully through, but it feels that with an additional protecting shell (extra width & heigth & weight & air resistance & wind-sensitivity) the projected CoM would leave the triangle of stability [LBC 119 (p. 9+) corrects LBC 114 (p. 8+)] even quicker and the rider gets less reaction time to counter steer or shifts the CoM with a body movement.
 
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