My carbon Milan 4.2 build

flowi schrieb:
Can you explain a bit more about this design? I don't understand why you make such a thin and high construct. I would expect it much easier and stronger if it would be as small as possible and attaching directly to the side wall and/or floor.
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Thin?

The aluminium is 10mm thickness. Maybe it looks like it's less.
The reason I already wrote: to reach the fastener with a ratchet.
 
Arend-Jan schrieb:
Sure, the body will lose some stiffness.
That is why I did laminate quite a thick border (using the aramid-hybrid to give it thickness), hoping to restore at least some of what will be lost.
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Hah I expected that you had done some analysis :D
Arend-Jan schrieb:
But maybe you remember this post, which shows what a HUGE hole I cut in my QV?
I didn't notice any change in how it handles. And people that have ridden with me, know I stress-test the handling of my bikes ;)
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Yes I know that. Surprising that it didn't change the handling and stiffness
 
flowi schrieb:
Ah yes I was thinking quattrevelo where sideway slips are more common. With 1 wheel at the back, things go south much quicker .
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If the rear wheel of a 3-wheeled velomobile breaks out, there is a problem/fault in the suspension -or- the front tires provide much more grip then the rear tire.

I had that problem with my Milan GT MK4/5 and I hated it. It was very dangerous on paved roads. The reason: the rear suspension offered no rebound damping at all. It was just an air bellow.. which is only an air spring but without damper. So the tire would start to skip/bounce and the bike went sideways.

I had it modified by ICB; I had them add a damper unit in parallel to the air bellow to offer rebound damping.

The Milan never went sideways again!
 
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flowi schrieb:
if it would be as small as possible and attaching directly to the side wall and/or floor.
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Wenn die Krafteinleitung sehr lokal ist, muss man aber drumherum auch wieder Verstärkungen und/oder Versteifungen zusätzlich in die Schale bauen. Da kann es sinnvoll sein, die Lasten gleich größerflächig verteilt in die Schale einzuleiten.

Von daher halte ich Jans Idee gar nicht so sehr für ein Zugeständnis an die Wartungsfreundlichkeit, sondern schlichtweg für eine gute Idee.
 
Yes, the wall/body is not very stiff.. so distributing the load over a bigger area is definately a plus.

I did the same with my Snoek, as the small swingarm mounting plate looks stiff, but it simply results in the body flexing a lot where the mount attaches to it.

I laminated beams into the bike to distribute the load over a bigger portion of the body :)
 
Now with that big hole, unfortunately I can see clearly the front side of the wheel wells are not glued in correctly. So I will need to repair/redo those...

Curious to see how stubborn the Sikaflex 221 is, when I try to remove it..
 
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Yes, I heard that tip before.

I'm not sure what to do now.
Dental floss is what I would try if I wanted to remove both wheel wells entirely.
I can also leave them in, cut off the parts of the flange that have a gap and simply laminate them to the body locally.

I guess I should have done it the way I had in mind at first: cut off the flanges completely, and laminate them in using a 50mm band of carbon. I was advised to use Sikafelex, but I'm not too happy about how much weight this has added to the bike, and there's still gaps.

I'll sleep on it.
 
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Arend-Jan schrieb:
When I was holding the part, I got a little nervous, wondering if it would be strong enough.
But I think it's ok.

With 100 KG of sideload, on a single plate, it's approaching the limit of this alloy


And that's what you would get when doing 1G sideways with a heavy (adult, male) passenger. Something I'm not hoping to do (for the sake of well-being of the passenger).
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So... this didn't quite sit well with me either.
So I reduced the height, moved the mounting location to the center and increased the dimensions of the ribbing.

It's 4x as stiff now, and over twice as strong as the previous design. So, I guess I have 2 new shiny decorative ornaments:P.
The fastener will be less convenient to reach, but can still be serviced. And how often does one actually remove the swing arm?;)
 
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Arend-Jan schrieb:
Dental floss is what I would try if I wanted to remove both wheel wells entirely.
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There is cutting wire for car windshields. It is square and has very sharp edges. Comes with two T-shaped handles for sawing/pulling through.
Wear good gloves for protection.
Add oil for lubrication (any oil will do, even olive oil).
Where you can't work with the wire (in a pocket) use a cheap kitchen knive with a flexible blade to saw/hack through.

This way I took out my "Vögelchen" in my DF XL.
 
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Cutting off the parts of the flanges that didn't sit turned out to be easier than I thought it would be.



Don't mind the mess... I will clean up ;) Need to sand the surfaces and will laminate a nice strip/band of carbon in there.
To compensate for the dusty pictures, here's some shiny ones, of the new plates.




Old vs New:
 
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