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- 213
This is great, and now great to read too!
Thank you so much for that !
Thank you so much for that !
My carbon Milan 4.2 build
- Ersteller Arend-Jan
- Erstellt am
You already could (with your 3d printer)Oh yeahhhhh
I can now make my own threads
Might I suggest what SinnerBikes used for the Mango (the M6 steering rods were too flexy/bendy for my taste)I have never been a big fan of the M6 threaded rods, for positioning the front struts.
What I now ordered are aluminium tubes, 10mm OD and 5mm ID, and balljoints with male M6 thread.
The 5mm ID is perfect for cutting M6 in, without additional drilling.
With a short rvs threaded rod in the aluminium tube, you can adjust the rod length even many years later. Aluminium with rvs can corrode and re-adjustment may be next to impossible. For weight considerations, you could use titanium threaded rods, but I’m not sure about corrosion in that particular set-up.
Anhänge
- Beiträge
- 5.206
Mine are 6mm high tensile threaded steel rod with a 10/6 mm CF tube covering. The steel rod is coated in epoxy before insertion. The weight of the 4 rods is within a gram of the VM.nl stainless tube version but there is no weak point where the SS tube is welded to the threaded part (I have bent one there in a pothole).
To test I stood on it, no visible flexing.
To test I stood on it, no visible flexing.
- Beiträge
- 491
You must be really skinny then
The aluminium (T6!) tubes have arrived. Can resume working on the bike Monday evening at the earliest. Have some finishing to do on the rear suspension. Top mount laminating + machining of bottom mounts + laminating those to the rear fork.
Then I can focus on stiffening and reinforcing the body shell, around the manholes (I have a pretty cool idea for that!). And after that I will move my focus to the front struts + steering.
The aluminium (T6!) tubes have arrived. Can resume working on the bike Monday evening at the earliest. Have some finishing to do on the rear suspension. Top mount laminating + machining of bottom mounts + laminating those to the rear fork.
Then I can focus on stiffening and reinforcing the body shell, around the manholes (I have a pretty cool idea for that!). And after that I will move my focus to the front struts + steering.
- Beiträge
- 491
It's been a few days (too warm for laminating!), but I have now resumed work.
Let me show you my main solution for stiffening the body shell/rider manhole:
(photo was rotated 180 degrees. There's no metal growing upwards out of the bike.. it's still hanging upside down)
(on both sides) I effectively made storage compartments that connect to top surface with the wheel wells.
I left enough height for the feet of a passenger (those rest against the wheel wells!) and for the knees (in front of the center stiffening beam and behind these storage boxes/stiffereners).
I am quite proud of solution for storage space to replace the common bags that usually sit where the passenger's feet will go.
The 'bend line' between the vertical and horizontal plane has the main load bearing function for when getting in/out the bike
When cured, I will remove the inside foam core panels (I taped over them so the epoxy won't stick too much) and add some foam strips to laminate over again, to create stiffness without adding much weight. Also the access edges will have to get a rounded rim this way (to not be crazy sharp).
Of course, with the 'bottom' being this sloped, anything in there will slide forward. I will probably either add some velcro-divider or bungee net.
Let me show you my main solution for stiffening the body shell/rider manhole:
(photo was rotated 180 degrees. There's no metal growing upwards out of the bike.. it's still hanging upside down)
(on both sides) I effectively made storage compartments that connect to top surface with the wheel wells.
I left enough height for the feet of a passenger (those rest against the wheel wells!) and for the knees (in front of the center stiffening beam and behind these storage boxes/stiffereners).
I am quite proud of solution for storage space to replace the common bags that usually sit where the passenger's feet will go.
The 'bend line' between the vertical and horizontal plane has the main load bearing function for when getting in/out the bike
When cured, I will remove the inside foam core panels (I taped over them so the epoxy won't stick too much) and add some foam strips to laminate over again, to create stiffness without adding much weight. Also the access edges will have to get a rounded rim this way (to not be crazy sharp).
Of course, with the 'bottom' being this sloped, anything in there will slide forward. I will probably either add some velcro-divider or bungee net.
Zuletzt bearbeitet:
Reminds me of a system ICB was building to make more space at the rear for even bigger cassettes on small wheels. I think they also moved the chain tensioner and kept only 1 guide wheel at the rear.
Anhang anzeigen 445426
And the bracket for trying my funky idea for shifting front chainrings while not needing an additional chain tensioner.
- Beiträge
- 491
Made some nice progress today.
Put the bike right-side-up again, and pulled the swingarm. Because I wanted to glue on the rear shockmounts.
But of course I first had to design and 3dprint an alignment jig, so that the 2 mounts would be coaxial and parallel to the rear wheel.
Then I did the first rough cuts, to feed a string of rope around the idlers, so I could check to what sides to enlarge the holes, so that chain tubes will fit.
Designed and printed a spacer / chaintuber-holder for the rear idler.
And did a quick testfitting with tubes.
For the front idler I will make something similar.0
Installed the swingarm back into the bike, and now for the first time I could test the air shocks.
And then I was tired, so I sat down in the bike to relax a bit
Here you can see how the body-stiffening luggage boxes run parallel to my lower legs, and I can still fit my feet underneath
Put the bike right-side-up again, and pulled the swingarm. Because I wanted to glue on the rear shockmounts.
But of course I first had to design and 3dprint an alignment jig, so that the 2 mounts would be coaxial and parallel to the rear wheel.
Then I did the first rough cuts, to feed a string of rope around the idlers, so I could check to what sides to enlarge the holes, so that chain tubes will fit.
Designed and printed a spacer / chaintuber-holder for the rear idler.
And did a quick testfitting with tubes.
For the front idler I will make something similar.0
Installed the swingarm back into the bike, and now for the first time I could test the air shocks.
And then I was tired, so I sat down in the bike to relax a bit
Here you can see how the body-stiffening luggage boxes run parallel to my lower legs, and I can still fit my feet underneath
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- Beiträge
- 491
It's from velomobiel.nl, their new idlers, as used in their bikes. They sell multiple sizes.
- Beiträge
- 491
That doesn't mean it cannot be modified, of course 
But, I did screw up the first one. And then also thought that the O-rings will probably not like those big slots in the side walls, so I fabricated 2 new ones...
This one I will use up front, where the deflection angle is biggest.
The one with side pockets will go in the back. To test... I can make new covers if the O-ring die.
But, I did screw up the first one. And then also thought that the O-rings will probably not like those big slots in the side walls, so I fabricated 2 new ones...
This one I will use up front, where the deflection angle is biggest.
The one with side pockets will go in the back. To test... I can make new covers if the O-ring die.
- Beiträge
- 491
Anyone with good advice on the best fore/aft position of the steering bearing?
If anything, I guess I should place it a bit forward, as I also sit far forward (seat almost touching the bridge).
Then, in the bag of parts, I also found the part on the right, which to me looks like an alternative steerer bearing.
Any founded opinions on which one I should choose?
If anything, I guess I should place it a bit forward, as I also sit far forward (seat almost touching the bridge).
Then, in the bag of parts, I also found the part on the right, which to me looks like an alternative steerer bearing.
Any founded opinions on which one I should choose?
I'd check-out the position of the bearing, by looking how much space the steering arm needs inside the bridge.
My Milan GT Mk2 (#65) has the bearing thingy you hold in your hand.
It came originally with tiller steering and got its tank steering later.
I thought its exact position was an integral part of the steering geometry?
- Beiträge
- 491
Installed the steerer as far forward as I could.
I don't want that tube too close to my own tube
Playing/experimenting with different ways to hold the chain tubes in place.
Cut and made the steering rods (from 6061 T6 aluminium tubes)
Not entirely happy yet about the center rods. Maybe I should fix them behind the steerer bearing (they're now in front of it.
But I suppose it's better to wait with doing all kinds of modifications until after the very first ride
Still to do before I can do a first testride:
Seat mounting (for both seats)
Top rollbar stiffening/reinforcing (will mount straps to that for the front seat, but it is now way too weak for that)
Rear service hatches on both sides (also to access Rohloff shifter and disc brake)
Design and laminate additional structure to connect swingarm mounts to the wheel well + doublefunction as lugagge shelfs
Install brakes
Install the chain
do some sanding (there's sharp carbon everywhere
)Can be done after:
Modifications/repairs from that testride
Finish front service hatch
Fit electrics + lights
Install mirrors
Hood modification (I want to split it in 2 sections and fit a motorcycle visor.. I hate that flimsy sheet of lexan)
....and a ton of aesthetic work....
Paint!
Almost done
I don't want that tube too close to my own tube
I've sleeved the Teflon tubes in thin walled (0,5mm wall thickness) aluminium tubes (lighter than carbon tubes, but harder to obtain*). Now they are dead straight and easier to mount.
*cheapest and (more importantly) easiest way to get them, is to butcher the cheapest, spring loaded, shower curtain tubes you can find in your local hardware store, btw