Can a Busch + Müller Lumotec IQ Cyo T be repaired

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113
Ort
Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country
Trike
Azub T-Tris 26
The first time I took my pedelec on the train it fell over and the Busch + MüllerLumotec IQ Cyo T hit a metal rail, the LED inside was displaced, it still works but is no longer aligned with the reflector.

I asked B+M and they said it couldn't be repaired because the parts are welded together. Maybe one of you has managed to open one? I have a Dremel of course.

TIA
 
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274
Ort
Waiblingen (15 km NO von Stuttgart)
Trike
HP Scorpion fs
Problem will be, when working on the inside of the reflector, any touching of the surface will make it dull, and as a matter of fact, it no longer will reflect properly. I don't think the squeeze will be worth the juice.....
 
Beiträge
113
Ort
Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country
Trike
Azub T-Tris 26
I hoped to be able to get into it from the back and not touch the reflector. Now that I have a 3D printer I have thought about printing a new rear part and epoxy gluing it to the front part but before cutting open I would like to know where the cut can be made without breaking anything inside.
 
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122
Ort
CH-5322 Koblenz
Velomobil
Quattrovelo
Liegerad
Flevo GreenMachine
'fraid not....
IIRC i popped off the back end / rotating switch, then there should be some small screws on the PCB.
 
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7.026
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81249 München
Liegerad
Optima Cheetah
Trike
HP Gekko
Look closer at the spot where the cables leave the housing. You should see the head of a long screw (hex or torx head) which holds the metal part at the top in place. Once this screw is removed, you should be able to take off the metal top and see the LED board.
 
Beiträge
113
Ort
Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country
Trike
Azub T-Tris 26
Look closer at the spot where the cables leave the housing. You should see the head of a long screw (hex or torx head) which holds the metal part at the top in place. Once this screw is removed, you should be able to take off the metal top and see the LED board.
Thank you very much!!!! Please remind me when we meet that I owe you a beer. No! Two beers.

The PCB with the LED was knocked back about 3 or 4 mm and blocked from going further back into the lamp by the long torx screw that holds the heat sink on.

To do:
- better seal the rubber joint under the heat sink with some silicone, I had some rain getting in there
- add some more thermal paste between the heat sink and the PCB
- 3D print a new back part

The new home for this IQ will be the trike - for the 24/24 running lights - it will be hard wired to the battery and on when the battery is on. I will add a second IQ-XS E which will switch on via the LCD and controller light switch so on the road 70+70 Lux.
 
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