Agilo velomobile

Update: the padding block was missing from the building instructions and will now be inserted. That is what being a first builder is for - finding the little things like this. :giggle:

A 10 mm solid iroko (because I can...) block will be inserted under the tie rod bracket, it should look very nice with satin varnish :LOL:
 
On these brackets, there can be quite a lot of force. It is a good idea to use big washers on the inside of the velomobile shell. That virtual crossing point is very important, for the steering behavior of the velomobile. I had a scary experience when i braked 1 handed/single sided at 50 km/h on a 2 meter wide bikelane.

Just elongating the metal rods with a dowel or stick can be helpfull, then drop a plumbob from the crossing point. Placing the mounting brackets a bit forward, or outward can have a lot of influence, the line from the front rod also pivots around the balljoint on the steering arm.

I'd count on having to play with it a bit before permanently glueing things on.

I started by getting the wheels flush with the body, with the centre rods. Then from that adjusted the front rods, to get the wheel centered in the well. Then get the wheels paralel by measuring underneath the body, get the same distance at the most forward and rearward spots where u can get the tapemesure under the velo. Then final micro adjustment of the tracking with a slow speed rollout test.

At least play a bit with brakes and steering at slow speed before plummeting down that hill at 70 km/h.

Greetings, Jeroen
 
70? That's trike speed :LOL:

Yes everything else is as you describe, there is a doubler inside the wheel well and large washers. I really had just screwed everything on out of the box and wanted you all to like the wood grain pattern... :giggle:

P.S. Agilo has two sided braking à la Quest so I will be taking those corners nice and slow compared to my lunatic trike driving with one wheel in the air.
 
Time to take the ergotec pedals off the Shimano Steps cranks and replace with SPD-SL, ooops! I'm all out of WD40 and the steel and aluminium seem to be slightly welded together...

I asked Miranda about some 160 or 165 cranks but they only have them with Q16! My Steps cranks are Q4 or Q8... Oh look! bike-discount.de have Steps FC-E5000 in 165 mm and they are 13.01€ OK they are silver but they are hidden away in a vélomobile, added to shopping list :giggle:
 
I was afraid of building my own rear wheel, I thought it was some kind of dark art practised by wizards like @Marc. I remember the time it seemed like he was building a new wheel set for the ICE every weekend... :giggle: And I thought that I would never be able to do that.

laced-Alfine.JPG

The Azub wheels are 2 crossed and the nipples are at pretty wild angles but the wheels are strong and reliable. I have gone for a single cross despite the Alfine hub being smaller than the 90 mm SA brake hubs, I think that will be sufficient for a strong wheel - this is just laced not tensioned or trued for the moment. Did you notice? The leading and trailing spokes are inverted I will be taking it apart and lacing it again until I can do it with a blindfold!

Remember this is a photo of wheels, you do not see anything else in this photo! :p
 
I am looking for photographs of cable routing for SA brakes on velomobiel.nl front struts please.

I have the SA cable tensioner and stop screw.
 
I'm still stuck on cable attachment. I did browse through 50+ pages of gallery photos but there is not a single one of how the brake cable is attached to velomobiel.nl struts... And nothing on their site either.
 
And here?

This is probably not sufficient, isn't it? (I do not have detailed pics with unmounted wheels)

2020-04-24_Lkg1.jpg

But wait - i remember somethin in Marc's blog:

milan-strut-with-brake-cable-adjuster.jpg
 
Theo just sent me a photo, there is a plastic adaptor on the lever. More intricate wood carving for me? :giggle:

brake.jpg
 
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That looks pretty similar to the routing in my yello egg, see above. I am not too happy about this solution because it seem to loose a lot of energy through internal friction. And it is inherently asymmetric.

I would describe the solution as "sub-optimal"... I understand keeping water out of the cable housing, trikes do that by having the bracket at 90º.

I will experiment some more with my kiwi solution and show it here when the bugs are ironed out. Hint: there are no plastic parts involved...
 
I have a front wheel with a brake! One whole day of questions, ideas and finally solutions! Tomorrow maybe two wheels? :giggle:

More seriously having looked at hundreds of photos and searched, in vain, technical documentation I am a little concerned. Sure optimising drive trains and getting more speed are important issues but just try doing a Google search (in English or translated to German) on braking with SA brakes and velomobiel struts. Good luck because today I didn't have much. Brakes are probably more important where I live that going fast on the plain, I have learnt that over the months that I have spent here with you all.

I will of course publish photos of my solution here in the hope that future searchers have more luck,
 
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