Agilo velomobile

Friday the 13th and glued! Almost ... Yesterday I glued the A pillars on but on the left side a clamp slipped and the part was badly glued. But hey! It is wood, cut, sand and glue again.

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I know I am two weeks behind schedule but this year we have learned to live with schedules being cast into the wind ...

P.S. 17.3 kg...
 
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I am very impressed of your capabilities in working with wood and the outcoming results! I think I have to take some extra lessons... (y):)
 
If you saw Agilo up close today you would not be so impressed. I have problems concentrating, probably the 7 years of night work I just came out of.

While not being Japanese I am happy with the comfortable relationship I have with my tools, especially the hand tools but then again I have 60 years of experience now...

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I love the lines of the roof, I am caressing it a lot more than I should be. That is an easy dry bend by the way.

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And now I can climb in and out as I please, just need the wheels!

Note: those large cutouts are not on the plan, I am "cheating" and using a little bit of carbon fibre to replace the strength of the missing wood.
 
Parkett-Öl. (OK, ist eigentlich häufig Öllack - der ist haptisch aber deutlich anders als Kunstharzlacke)
 
Ob das auf Kunststoffen geht
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das könnte durchaus gehen, würde aber vielleicht nicht sehr hübsch. Öl dunkelt ziemlich nach, wo viel Öl wird es mehr abdunkeln. Epoxi mit wenig oder ohne Öl würde dann gut sichtbar bleiben, oder noch besser sichtbar werden, fürchte ich.
Auch wird ein Öl, mit dem sich die Poren voll saugen, Gewicht beitragen. Auf Parkett ist das egal.
 
hartharz öl (wird genommen wenn "offenporig" versiegelt werden soll) bei parkett und würde auch auf dem kleber eine schicht bilden.
es wird in etwa so aussehen, wie die dunklen stellen durch den epoxi kleber.
auftragen mind. 3 mal mit min. je 24 std. zwischen tocknen, länger = besser (zimmertemp) luffeuchtigkeit nicht über 70%.
das hartharzöl wird beim trocknen so hart das es mit schleiffpads geschliffen werden kann, was ich auch empfehlen würde.
ist seidenglänzend nach dem trocknen und kann mit stahlwatte (sehr fein) poliert werden, bis auf glänzend.
pflege mir schmierseiffe, regelmässig ist dann aber von nöten, das öl der schmierseiffe nährt dann die "offenen" poren.
die alten schönen riemenparkett sind alle so "gepflegt" worden.

ich hätte aber bedenken, da offenporig, das es nach 2-3 jahren nutzen sehr dunkel bis schwarz wird, durch den feinen staub (strassendreck)
und nach oben hin immer heller wird.
allerdings habe ich noch nie einen gepflegten parkett gesehen dessen pathina mir nicht gefallen hat.

vom gewicht her, wird farbe (deckend) und spachtel schwehrer .
 
YES! 2K-Klarlack!

2-component clear coat! I would definitely try to apply 2-component clearcoat as the first layer. If it looks imperfect in certain places, you can still spray a slightly tinted 2K glaze over this first layer, and also a second. Personally, it would be very important to preserve the wood character as much as possible. I don't think, absolutely not at all, that the 'flaws' of such a wooden workpiece as shown here a few posts ago should be carelessly attempted to cover up with colored lacquer. The opposite will happen, these flaws and irregularities are visually emphasized by the homogeneous layer of paint and are then extremely annoying and immediately noticeable. And then it almost has to be filled and sanded.

The big advantage of 2K clear lacquer, if you choose the right one, is: You can put several layers on top of each other, and if you do it with passion and love, you can create smooth transitions to the areas with frequent defects.

What is in the end: A VM made of wood! The grain will involuntarily pull the eye of the beholder under the spell, one is so distracted by the flaws that one actually looks over it, it is definitely less noticeable than when an opaque, homogeneous color is applied. If the color is light, the shadows are intensified; if the color is dark, the highlights. Every mistake then will be very noticeable, even much more than now.

Before anything is applied, the surface must be cleaned and sanded with extreme passion. And one more thing: if the wood looks scruffy, feel doesn't matter.

Best Regards
Christian

PS: My Opinion: You are about to create a work of art here. Please don't break it. You will never get the paintwork off again!

PPS: Serious wood defects can perhaps be improved with dry application & rubbing in of suitable pigments, still under the clear lacquer. And if necessary grind away again. And in some places an escape to the front is also conceivable. Certain edges could also be emphasized optically, with metal! Chrome / brass strips ... just an idea ... maybe a very bad one, I know. Maybe only I like it. I like material combinations. They still have one thing in common: They are real. So.
 
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Echt hübsch geworden! Der Bauplan ist auch fair bepreist. Klingt nach nem schönen Projekt für den nächsten Urlaub
 

and

Last summer we had several days over 35º C, the air temperature is quite temperate here because of sea breezes but the sun is hot and the road is hot. So... The body will be metallic pearl white to reflect the sun and the roof a bright metallic color to make me more visible - I like VW Vipergreen and I also like the Renault metallic orange and reds - and the inside will be varnished with clear satin boat varnish. So when you look in the windows you will see the wood. Yesterday I applied a coat of epoxy to the wheel wells and under the floor, no photos because you will all go crazy again :p

Oh and underneath white stonechip paint. I will not go crazy fairing and sanding, there will be visible defects because it is wood, I will not be hiding anything, even the nose which I didn't get 100% to my satisfaction.
 
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I think I have a solution...

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What wood? :rolleyes:

I am very happy, my 19.95€ scooter cover I use on the trike fits!!! And my girlfriend came for lunch and said "where is the vélomobile?" :ROFLMAO:
 
I prefer your white green colorchoice! Gives a much cleaner and modern look.
Have you already gotten the suspensionparts?
I wonder, if these are that easy to get...that would be an important part of a successfull "massproduction", I mean motivate others to follow your path.
 
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